Day 2 back to Tsunami V9 at Chebucto Head, Nova Scotia. My goal this trip was modest; get to the knee-bar rest without falling. It didn’t quite go down as I had hoped but I did make some great progress.
This isn’t my first time projecting Tsunami but I can’t really remember how all the moves were done. I had thought about looking back at the video i shot for Eastern Tide. All the beta is there, I could watch it forward, backward, in slow motion and freeze the exact moments I need to see. But I wondered if I went into it with a preconceived notion of how it’s done would I be robbing myself of a fresh start?
Would I miss some potential new sequence that would save energy ensuring my success?
The best part of working a project with others is the free exchange of ideas and the different styles everyone bring to a climb.
The first day on revealed some excellent beta to make the drop down move significantly easier. The first crux was essentially removed. This session some crucial beta was discovered for the transition into the kneebar rest.
The weather in Nova Scotia has been terrible this spring and the bugs just as bad so with inland rope climbing out of the picture I’ve started bouldering again and have my eyes on one of Nova Scotia’s most unique boulder problems. Tsunami! Originally sent by Sean Cassidy in 1999 it was graded V8. It was a real call to arms at the time and all the local hardmen were lining up to get on it. After a few hard fought repeats the grade was raised to V10. This was now THE problem to climb. After a bit more time and a few more sends the grade was debated and adjusted finally settling out at V9. At the time i had been filming others as they worked it and occasionally working it myself and after a bit of time i had all the moves dialed and was ready to add my name to the shortlist. But shit happens and i walked away having never completed the hardest boulder problem i’ve ever attempted.
For some insane reason, i’ve decided this is a project i don’t want to leave undone. So this last week I’ve returned to Chebucto Head to re-project Tsunami.
Day one is all about getting familiar with the drop down crimp, the drop knee gaston, the knee bar rest and the fat chest height undercling sections.
The long journey begins…
This past summer brought a lot of interesting people to Nova Scotia and Boulderfest especially. I was back filming Boulderfest again so I didn’t have much time to socialize, but the people i did manage to meet were all great people passionate about climbing. While there i met David, Editor and owner of Climberism magazine. Climberism is an online magazine focusing on the Northeast. Although there is a lot to say about this new online magazine i will simply say it has great photos, and good stories from people and places you rarely hear about in other publication.
The most recent issue features an article about Atlantic storms and their devastating effect on Nova Scotia bouldering areas and a review of “Eastern Tide“.
Check it out, book mark it, follow it on twitter, Facebook, and coming soon brain stem implant.
It’s that time of year again folks! Time to get psyched up for Climb Nova Scotia’s Annual Boulderfest! That’s right -Climb Nova Scotia has been hard at work planning this years Boulderfest to be bigger and badder than ever!
Boulderfest will be held Saturday July 31st (~8:00am) and stretch to Sunday August 1st (~3:00pm). Rain date will be Aug 1st – 2nd (Monday Aug 2nd is a Holiday). Get your ticket NOW! Tickets have been going like crazy. Get yours at MEC, Trailshop, Rock Court, Ground Zero or online at www.climbnovascotia.ca
Hands down the best bouldering in NS, wicked coastline atmosphere, great people and awesome sponsors!!
Come Get Some!
What CNS will provide:
Schwag Bag for all those participating for the full event
Supper for Saturday PM – Menu to be confirmed
Breakfast for Sunday AM – Menu to be confirmed
Snacks, Door prizes, Fireworks, Slackline and more!
What you will Need:
Water (4L per day), proper clothing, tent, sleeping bag, extra food (lunch, snacks etc), proper footwear, headlamp, etc.
Last night a big crew of approx 30 people met at the Armdale Rotary in Halifax to kick off CNS’s Monday Night Bouldering. We headed off to Prospect Bay to keep the tradition alive and introduce outdoor climbing to some of those who are still in the early stages. The weather was warm and barely any bugs! I feel everyone had a great time and I am super stoked to see even more people out next Monday at Chebucto Head.
For those of you who are familiar with Prospect Bay you may be surprised to realize you are not that familiar afterall! The pile of boulders that once sat under Sang de Dragon are now dispersed! It has totally opened up!
A couple of boulders directly behind Debbie Does Dyno’s have opened up as well, creating a couple new problems that are decently hard!
Chris Richardson did a left variation of Sang de Dragon that runs up the series of tiny sharp crimpers on the left face (same sit start). Pretty Cool.
These Organic Pads are becoming a familiar site here in NS. Last night a small crew (Keith, Jess, NathanB and Scooter) headed to Chebucto Head for a little night session. Out of the five pads in attendance, four were Organic! The temperatures were near perfect with a cool breeze keeping the bugs out-of-sight. Some problems that saw ascents were the classic 8 inches (aka Slot Problem), Tough Sailors and Adrenaline Junkie.
After playing around for a while on the Twin Sisters area we headed to Fynnished just a bit further down the coast. By then we were climbing in the dark and making very little progress! That thing is Hard!!
Valentines Day in Halifax, NS has been traditionally marked with the Valentines Day Massacre climbing competition at Ground Zero Climbing Gym. This year things were a bit different. The Massacre was married with the local Tour De Bloc event, and what an event! The pool of strong climbers was larger this year with the return of Ben Blakney and Krissy Lunney to Halifax after an extended leave from the Nova Scotia scene. Locals Ben and Nate Smith and Chris Richardson have also improved dramatically over the past year and a contingent of climbers from New Brunswick upped the anti on this year comp. With the amazing features from Bolo Climbing Holds and the excellent route setting by the Ground Zero crew and Ghislain Losier, this year proved to be the best comp yet.
Coming out of the qualifying round the top Eight climbers in the Men’s Open division were:
Going into the finals it looked like it could be anyone’s game. Ben smith went into the finals strong but was recovering from an illness (probably ate a bad squirrel) and didn’t have enough in the reserve tank to reclaim the WBF (World Bouldering Federation) belt this year and for a while it looked like younger brother Nathan would outshine him. Chris Richardson and Ben Blakney also had an excellent showings in the finals but Chris flashed the second problem bumping him into first place running.
The big surprise was outsider Eric Sethna. It’s rumored this young gun has been crushing at comps all through the east and Halifax was no exception. Eric was able to pull through a tiny crimper on the third problem to get the finishing hold and was the only climber to get all four finals problems solidifying his first place win.
Men’s Final Results
1. Eric Sethna
2. Chris Richardson
3. Ben Blakney
Special thanks to Scott Richardson and Trevor Schellinck for assisiting the Pull Down Production team in producing the Tour De Bloc videos.